[GUIDE] Successful DIY TF300 Screen Replacement

[erfaldo]

ok, thank you- I've managed to pull apart everything quite easily except for removing the two ribbon cables for the digitizer I thought you had to flip the black stuff up instead of directly pull. This mistake resulted in me pulling off a little of the black Attachment 4584 as you can see in the photo attached...


Now, I don't think she's a goner; but maybe someone else can chime in, everything seems ok and I could see some little gold contacts they still seems to be straight and in perfect condition; I'm thinking the black stuff was just some sort of protective shielding. With this thought in mind I'm going to go ahead and order one of the digitizes. Also if this all goes to plan I'm probably going to record and upload this process to YouTube as I really can't find anything hopefully I'll help out a future noob and make sure they don't make the same mistakes I do.

NOTE: if your pulling apart your tablet these plugs are under a little bit of foam you'll have to pull off they are sticky. You'll need to remove them put them some place clean and then re attach them later. You need to be able to see the white line like the original poster suggested you can't with the foam still there.


EDIT. When I said everything... that didn't include LCD from digitizer; I'd love to know how the opening poster separated his without killing the digitizer; mine is already dead so I can be rough with it but not with the LCD. It just seems too me getting these two apart alive would almost be impossible. There is some serious glue holding these guys in place. If money wasn't so tight I'd be ordering a LCD screen right now as well.


EDIT2: You'll need Balls of Steel/Stupidity. Or Some gloves and some safety goggles; I've managed to cut a few things Basically once you get to this point you have to pick LCD or digitiser I went LCD get a small flat head driver or credit card type thing cut into a long strip on one side on the back of the screen there is a little indentation where you can push your flat thing between the screen and the digitizer you'll hear some cracking slowly move around the screen like this the two parts will slowly come apart eventually you'll have glass everywhere hopefully not your finger or eyes and have separated the two and be left with just the LCD.

Safety WASH YOU HANDS! AND DO NOT WIPE your eye. LOTS and LOTS of little glass will attack you and coat your hands by the time you're done. so be careful.

Hello I'm preparing my TF300T for d"do by my self reparation. I have already open de plastic cover and identified the screws to be remover 13( in total, right?)
Then I shoul be able to separate the LCD+digitizer group.
I have my digitizer broken but the idea of separate them from LCD I'm afraid to damage the LCD,...
Do you have any advice at this point, which area the hair dryer needs to heat up...?
To help other see picture of TF300 OpenIMG_20121215_090233.jpg

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[jmullan99]

I just successfully completed replacing the LCD in my TF300T tablet.

I followed the guide which was very helpful and in addition I have the following suggestions that were very helpful for me.

#1. Take Pictures! It is very helpful to take pictures as you being taking things apart and along the way. If you get can't remember what color screw goes where or how the cables are routed or have any other questions during reassembly you can just refer back to the pictures.

#2. Use a hair dryer (or heat gun) to heat up the adhesive that holds the screen and digitizer together. It make the process MUCH easier.... no blood or broken glass.

Good Luck

+1 for both points. I've done several smart phones (iPhones, etc) and the hair dryer is number one tool. ESPECIALLY if the digitizer is already in 1000 pieces. You stand a very good chance of also breaking the LCD panel if you don't take these extra steps. Ask me how I know

[starcap]

Ok, OP---- your post was great. Very helpful in replacing the digitizer....thank you. My problem is this: I replaced the digitizer without damaging the LCD, drawing blood or getting glass in my eye; however----the digitizer still does not work. I have reopened the case and made sure that the digitizer ribbon was seated well AND I have done a soft reboot. Any other ideas?

[ztransformer]

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Greetings folks,
And Merry Christmas and Season's Greetings!

I joined this forum because of the many customers we now have with broken Asus TF300T, TF201 who I have helped. We repair iPads, iPods, Laptops, Desktops and in an indirect way now have become involved in helping fix broken Asus screen, and try to fix DIY issues. I came to this forum first looking for some guidance, and it's been helpful.
As an EE, I have seen much hardware over the last three and half decades of working with hardware, and let me be very clear fixing and repairing TF300T, TF201 digitizers and/or LCD's are a difficult chore, and I would only recommend IF
1) Your are bold of heart and well-vested in working with flex cables, heat guns, and over 30 triple zero phillips screws.
2) Please, please, please wear safety glasses when working with shattered/cracked digitizers as shards of glass fly off some of these cracked screen and are dangerous to your priceless eyesight.

Having fixed over half a dozen TF300T and now a couple of TF201's (with two different digitizers, ugh!) if I rate fixing an iPad 2 screen as a 4 on the scale of 1 to 10, I would rate the task of changing out the TF300T's screen a solid 8 due to the
1) the many dozen 000 screws you have to go through.
2) the number of flex cables you have to successfully lift
3) The tough grade of the black fabric type double sided tape around the rubber bezel holding the digitizer to it and the LCD.

The design of the Asus TF300T and TF201 is the reverse of the iPad.
The battery, CPU/GPU, digitizer daughterboard, speakers all sit on top of the LCD and Digitizer.
So, first carefully remove all these, then the conductive bezel underneath, and then finally you get to the LCD and Digitizer.
I will try to post some images, once I am familiar with this site.

[ztransformer]

There are screws under the bezel. And hidden also on the top under the bezel. BE CAREFUL. DO NOT PULL ON CPU BOARD TILL THE TOP HIDDEN SCREWS ARE OFF. I gotta count, but you also have to take the triple zero phillips screws around the plastic bezel. Close to thirty is more the count. Uggh! Having done this many, many times!

View my post, and the flip-up tabs on the flex connector to the Digitizer must be popped up. I use my fingernails and a special tool. Using fingers gives you a tactile feedback, I find, that using small tools do not.

Best of luck!

[boywiththe]

I finally had the time today to replace the cracked digitizer on my TF300. As per ztransformer, it is a difficult chore.

Alas after all the effort of taking it all apart and putting it back together again, my replacement digitizer doesn't work. I've done a hard reset and still no luck.

At this point I'm at a loss as to what to do next. Any suggestions?

[ztransformer]

Having replaced many, many digitizers both in the iDev world and now Transformer world, sadly 33% of glass we buy is DOA or have dead spots on them. Really, really frustrating for DIY deal when the only glass you are holding is one.

When we get glass, we test out a few, on a good digitzer daughterboard/CPU combo.

Please note DIY, a cracked glass can also short lines going into the little digitizer daughter board.
You may be holding good glass and a bad digitizer board.
I pulled my hair out with a TF300T from TX this week putting in two tested good digitizers.
NO GO!
I finally took a good machine apart and swapped the daughter board out from a working TF300T,
and viola, both digiziters took.
Before when I worked on Laptops more, the inverter boards, the little boards on the back of the
laptop screen would go with broken laptop screens. Now the same thing is happening to the little
daughter board. A cracked digitizer can easily short out lines going through that cable into the X-Y
input of the daughter board and fry the input lines.

Oh, another pointer.
MAKE VERY SURE ALL THE SCREWS GOING INTO THE METAL BEZEL HOLDING THE CPU/GPU AND DIGITIZER BOARD
ARE TIGHT.
GROUND IS ESTABLISHED VIA THIS BACK BEZEL. WATER CANNOT FLOW UP A WATER FALL, AND LEAVING A FEW SCREWS OR GROUNDING METAL
SILVERY STRAPS WILL MAKE YOUR SYSTEM SEEM LIKE WITH NO SOLID GROUND YOU ARE TRYING TO DRIVE ELECTRONS UP A WATER FALL OF ELECTRICITY.
NONE OF THE TAPE, METAL GROUNDING STRAPS ARE THROW AWAYS IN THE TF300T'S DESIGN.

AS THE SAYING GOES, RIGHT IS TIGHT IS MIGHT.

Had a DIY from FL send me a TF300T that would not take. First thing I notice was a few missing screws.
Well, he had flexed the digitizer cable also and killed the digitzer. DO NOT FLEX DIGITZER CABLES.
VERY FRAGILE.
USE A TWEEZER TO GENTLY INSERT INTO THE CONNECTOR.
A magnifying glass is an in-disposable tool in my tool box.
Flex cables are kinda like potato chips, you twist beyond a point, they break rather easily.

Hope fellow transformer DIY will find these pointers helpful.

[ceg]

Thanks for the Pictures and the tips, I was pulling out my hair last night trying to figured out why I digitizer doesn't work in the second tf300 that I was fixing, first one (my son tablet) took me 7 hours to pull apart clean and stick together I was happy with the second after just 3 hours of work and frustrate wen the touch screen doesn't respond at all. I'm just guessing how or where find a daughter board or if there is a way to test the digitizer with out pull it apart again.

[grace]

I dropped my transformer and cracked the screen. The touch stopped working after that happened. So i replaced the screen and digitzier. The touch screen still is not working. What can I do?

[nath180]

I replaced my digitiser today with the same result. No response from the new digitiser. Now to try and track down a board to determine if the digitiser is DOA or the board is dead.

If anyone knows how to get a supply of these boards, please respond.