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Thread: [GUIDE] PSA: short the data pins to charge your T100 fast with *ANY* USB cable.

  1. #21
    Soundwave
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    @cleanair It seems like there is nothing special about the original power adapter, but the micro USB plug is unique with it's resistor (I've tore both parts apart).
    Just now I've finished peeling of the insulation from the PWR+ 5V/4A dual plugs micro usb charger. I've tore down the plug and found out that:
    1. Data pins were shorted
    2. There was no resistor between ID and GND pins.
    3. The 2 wires V+ and GND were much thicker then standard known USB ones. 18 AWG thickness to be precise. That's probably the exact same thicknes as the genuine cable was.
    4. ID pin was left alone, not connected to anything.

    So to have your Asus T100TA charged at maximum speed (5V/3A):
    1. You need a USB cable that has DATA pins shorted (data cables won't work unless you manually short the pins!). Of course you can also short the data pins in the charger. Today, many chargers including power banks already have the data pins shorted.
    2. The wires must be thick - 18AWG thickness. There are lots of USB cables that look thick, but the wires inside are superthin - 28AWG.
    3. You need a powerbrick with more then 2A output.

    More info:
    I've also had my T100TA charged from the Xiaomi 10000mAh powerbank with the cable that came with it... It was enough - I could play LoL and the device would still charge.

    I have 2 genuine T100TA chargers with broken micro usb plugs, I will solder the new plugs and check if the chargers will charge fine. I'll let you know the results.
    I'll also manually make a 18 AWG USB-MicroUSB cable just to check if other chargers will charge with more then 0.45/0.5A.

    I'll get back with results in max of 2 weeks or so.

  2. #22
    Soundwave
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ventricle View Post
    @cleanair It seems like there is nothing special about the original power adapter, but the micro USB plug is unique with it's resistor (I've tore both parts apart).
    Just now I've finished peeling of the insulation from the PWR+ 5V/4A dual plugs micro usb charger. I've tore down the plug and found out that:
    1. Data pins were shorted
    2. There was no resistor between ID and GND pins.
    3. The 2 wires V+ and GND were much thicker then standard known USB ones. 18 AWG thickness to be precise. That's probably the exact same thicknes as the genuine cable was.
    4. ID pin was left alone, not connected to anything.

    So to have your Asus T100TA charged at maximum speed (5V/3A):
    1. You need a USB cable that has DATA pins shorted (data cables won't work unless you manually short the pins!). Of course you can also short the data pins in the charger. Today, many chargers including power banks already have the data pins shorted.
    2. The wires must be thick - 18AWG thickness. There are lots of USB cables that look thick, but the wires inside are superthin - 28AWG.
    3. You need a powerbrick with more then 2A output.

    More info:
    I've also had my T100TA charged from the Xiaomi 10000mAh powerbank with the cable that came with it... It was enough - I could play LoL and the device would still charge.

    I have 2 genuine T100TA chargers with broken micro usb plugs, I will solder the new plugs and check if the chargers will charge fine. I'll let you know the results.
    I'll also manually make a 18 AWG USB-MicroUSB cable just to check if other chargers will charge with more then 0.45/0.5A.

    I'll get back with results in max of 2 weeks or so.

    Thanks for all your hard work. Just to confirm though:
    1. The original T100 power adapter and cable that you opened up came with a T100TA (and not a Chi or HA model), is that right?
    2. Does the original power adapter have its data pins shorted? I still wonder if there is some hardware or smart technology in the original power adapter that sets it apart from others, because when I use the original T100 cable with an ordinary 2.1 Amp wall charger that I bought at CVS, I get much slower charging speeds than when using the original power adapter, so something must be different in the original power adapter.
    3. The data pins in the original T100 cable are NOT shorted, right?
    4. Are you sure the T100TA can charge at a maximum of 3 Amps? I thought it would not pull more than 2 Amps in any case.

  3. #23
    Soundwave
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    1. I have 2 original chargers - 5V/3A - I'm from Poland, only in the US they sold retarded 2A.
    2. Original charges DOES have data pins shorted.
    3. Above
    4. As in 1.

    Anyway, I couldn't wait so I did almost all I wanted today Xd

    Just look:





    I'll add all explanations and details for the above later, now I'm heading to sleep (2:30 AM here).

  4. #24
    Soundwave
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ventricle View Post
    1. I have 2 original chargers - 5V/3A - I'm from Poland, only in the US they sold retarded 2A.
    2. Original charges DOES have data pins shorted.
    3. Above
    4. As in 1.

    Wow, great work! Can you clarify, though, regarding your answer to Question 3 above: I thought I remembered that when you opened up the original T100 cable (long time ago when you (or maybe someone else?) posted photographs of it), you found that it does not have the D+ and D- pins shorted but only has a resistor between the ID and GND pins. Is that right? Or does such a resistor in that location maybe also have the effect of shorting the D+ and D- pins? (please forgive these novice questions). Also, I read on another forum or thread that a T100 owner used his original T100 cable to transfer data between his T100 and his phone, so that would mean that the cable's data pins are not shorted, right? (unless it is a different cable sold in the European market?)

  5. #25
    Soundwave
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    @cleanair I guess we have different power adapters coming with the device here in Europe. My adapter has a non detachable cable - one end only - the micro USB.
    It has only 2 wires + shielding. No way you could transfer data on this because the data pins are not used and they are shorted.

    It seems like the charger from US is way different and has a detachable cable.

    About you question on the OEM plug teardown:
    I didn't check wheter the actual metal pins inside the plug were shorted. That's how it works in the PWR+ charger.
    I did however plugged the cable into a female micro USB port yesterday and checked for shorting - data pins were shorted.

    I think I will make a separate thread with a guide on this.
    Coming soon.

  6. #26
    Soundwave
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ventricle View Post
    @cleanair I guess we have different power adapters coming with the device here in Europe. My adapter has a non detachable cable - one end only - the micro USB.
    It has only 2 wires + shielding. No way you could transfer data on this because the data pins are not used and they are shorted.

    It seems like the charger from US is way different and has a detachable cable.

    About you question on the OEM plug teardown:
    I didn't check wheter the actual metal pins inside the plug were shorted. That's how it works in the PWR+ charger.
    I did however plugged the cable into a female micro USB port yesterday and checked for shorting - data pins were shorted.

    I think I will make a separate thread with a guide on this.
    Coming soon.

    I was referring to your post of 04-03-2015, Post # 8 in this thread. Was that cable the original OEM one that came with your T100TA? Did that one have 5 pins in the micro USB connector but only 2 wires in the actual cable? And was that cable non-detachable? Thanks again for all your help with this.

    Also, did your T100TA come with a HDD in the dock? (If so, could that maybe explain its ability to draw 3 Amp?)

  7. #27
    Soundwave
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    @cleanair I've just updated all me old posts because they were seriously misguiding. I've had my PMIC (power management integrated circuit) repaired and now DATA pins shorting works. I of course didn't mention the exact model of charger back then - I didn't know that we have different OEM chargers in different parts of the worlds - so I've added the model to the post.

    To answer your question:
    Yes, it was the original OEM adapter with a non-detachable micro usb cable and yes, it only had 2 wires + shielding; 5pins, but data shorted.

    I have 2 T100TAs both with the HDDs in dock, but I've had one HDD removed. It doesn't matter, tablet will draw even over 15W of power without the dock.

    Please wait for my new thread/post about this before you post any more questions. I'll have a pretty much full guide for the matter today I think.

    Quick tip:
    If you are replying to the last post, then don't quote it. Simple @nickname or @up is enough. It's part of the Netiquette.
    Last edited by Ventricle; 08-16-2016 at 10:07 AM.

  8. #28
    Soundwave
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    @Ventricle

    Ok, thanks for all the info and advice.

  9. #29
    Soundwave
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    @Ventricle any progress?

  10. #30
    Soundwave
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    Hey guys and gals, I doubt this thread is even looked at anymore but I figure I would ask, has anyone managed to get this unit to boot without a battery? The reason I ask is that I'm attempting to use the mainboard from an old dead unit to make a windows media box and possibly a hackintosh media box as I've heard there is a great success in booting OSX on this unit,

    Problem being that lack of battery on this unit is a problem, I've connected a USB cable straight to the battery pins, of the 6 pins, the far left 2 are ground, the far right 2 are positive, I've bridged both of them to positive and negative on the USB cable, this alone gives me the orange flashing led and a low battery indicator on the tv through HDMI, I've then taken the 2 in the middle left over (battery level indicator wires) and put the one closest to the left to ground and the one on the right to positive, this gives me the white flashing light, with no display what so ever, bridging the battery indicator wires does nothing different to the first results (orange flash with low battery indicator) and crossing the left and right wires over (left to positive, right to negitive on the left) just shorts out the board

    Basically I need to come up with some way to trick the board into thinking its got 100% charge and booting up, on most other tablet boards, this just happens when you run the battery connector to a standard 5v wall charger, the unit just always displays 100% and charging, sadly as every owner of this unit knows, charging is a d*ck on a good day, let alone with the crap I'm attempting, any advice here in terms of getting it to boot?

    Thanks guys!

 

 
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